Any time you spoon on new rubber it’s important to avoid sudden acceleration, maximum braking, and hard cornering for somewhere between 10 and 100 miles. Those gentle, initial miles you ride on your new tires is known as the break-in period, and it’s a good idea for a few reasons. We’ll separate the tire break-in facts from the old-school myths in this video from the MC Garage.
Price: $14.99
Breakthrough
(as of September 19, 2020 - More infoProduct prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.)
Price: $9.99
Break
(263)
Price: $6.99
The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn Part 2
(as of September 19, 2020 - More infoProduct prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.)
Price: $6.99
loving the great content guys but i have a question.
If i’m running tires that are not recommended for my bike how am i suppose to know the right tire pressure?
Yoooo we have the same last name. Never thought I’d see another Henning lol
Can you break in new tires by doing eights on parking lot?
i had a little bit of unscuffed tire oin my front that was slick, so i brake cleaned it w a rag. bad idea?
I learnt a good things from you. Thank you for that!☺
Nice video…
Not to burst your bubble bud but I work for Michelin and guess what they still use mold release so yes there is a compound on the tire that makes them slick that’s why they tell you to about 100 miles for it to burn off and scrub it
Videos like this can save someone a crash. Thanks!
Name of the Bike please??????????????
is burnout good for new tire break in..
Burnout to wear them in?
On a slightly different point, this reminds me of when my brother in law took a used bike out for a test ride with a view to buying it, only to have it wash out on him at low town centre speeds. Fortunately a policeman witnessed the accident, which turned out to have happened because some not-so-bright spark at the shop had sprayed tyre black on the whole tyre (presumably to make them look nice and new)!!!!! The shop owner said “you broke it, you bought it”, but my brother in law wasn’t having any of it, saying he was lucky not to have been seriously injured, at which point he got banned from the shop – which he wouldn’t have gone back to anyway given their dodgy practices and attitude of the owner. He now wipes a finger across the tyres of any bike he is going to test ride just to be sure it doesn’t happen again!!!!!!
I’m not exactly sure but I think You are wrong in terms of “slippery” new tires. From what I know (I’m not an expert, I may be wrong) tires ARE coated with small layer of rubber to protect them from rubber reacting with oxygen. Rubber do react with oxygen, and If You buy new tire few months after it was produced, it doesnt matter, but If You buy it 3-4 years after, it might be highly damaged, for example, it could get harder than it should so it would give You less grip. As I said, I’m not an expert and my knowledge might be a little bit outdated
Can you do a video on the type of exhausts? for racing per say, megafone pipe vs the standard Bottle pipe?
I’ve worked at a dealer, in the past, and there sure was a lot of people who would not listen at all. The most epic fail was a guy with an Intruder 1400 who got new tires fitted. The workshop always told the customers to take it easy, and always fitted a sticker on the speedo/tacho cluster that specifically said that new tires are slippery.
The Intruder 1400 was parked at a 45 degree angle to the road, and this was a 25mph zone. The owner of the bike jammed the throttle and dumped the clutch, for some dumb reason. Well, let’s just say the bike smashed into the building across the street in a glorious way, leaving the owner flat on the ground in utter shame.
Break in is very easy to be honest. Just ride normally and be smooth on your inputs – both throttle and turn in. No reason to push the grip in any way – you simply need the baked outer silica layer to be scrubbed by rolling on tarmac. I’d say the first 100km is the most crucial, but still gradually push it in small increments after that until you FEEL confident in your tires.
Word of advise on tires: Find both a brand and a tire combo you FEEL confident in. It doesn’t matter to you if some other rider speaks highly of some tire if it doesn’t make YOU feel confident. Same goes with the rest of the bike, gear and so on. Listen to yourself, and enjoy the ride.
This might be a dumb question, but is it safe to ride with the sticker on the tire? I know it’ll wear off eventually, but won’t the sticker be really slick too?
Hi can you make a video on why a front wheel is wobbling? Thanks
How about adjusting Desmo valves?
Nope, it has nothing to do with scuffing. It has everything to do with evaporating the shit that is left in the rubber compound by the tire maker…it is heat, and heat alone, that “breaks in the tires”. Get the tires to a temp of about 160 degF for a period of time and you’re good to go. It takes about 100 miles to put that much heat for the appropriate amount of time—nothing to do with scuffing. A good topic is why manufacturers don’t heat treat tires before making them available for sale.
Should i just stationary smoke the tires or do donougts?
Burn outs for brake in? I know its late but jw
One minute per tire with COARSE sandpaper before mounting. Plenty. By hand. Forget that stupid little vibratory sander.
Burnout?…
What if I do a burnout on the new tires?
What bike is that?
Something I like to do with new tyres is to do slow (walking speed) figure 8’s to scuff up some thread before riding off the lot to gently hit twisties. In my opinion the difference is notable between doing the figure 8’s or not